Rate my small collection & just for fun, guess a retail value as I’m too afraid to do the math myself. 1 clone is the radial oz. The rest are authentic.
How do you expect folks to value the collection without being able to inspect the condition of each one? Aerial photographs don’t cut it.
If you want an accurate estimate, get the collection professionally appraised.
Shadow_Of_Silver
Typically, if it’s in very good condition and not a super special collector’s piece or custom, 80%-85% of what the knives would cost new is a safe bet.
Obviously, the exact model and maker can change that number, and I’m not about to go through every one pictured here to discover the name and then research the normal retail value.
Use, condition, age, and even exact configuration also matters.
All this to say I have no clue.
Bakedrarebit
It’s tough like others say. I’m seeing Spydercos and Cold Steel which are kinda cheaper knives. Generally you should just look what current prices are on each knife new and start putting them in a spreadsheet like Excel or even a word document table if you are looking to sell them. I think getting 80% back or so back if they are in good condition is reasonable. If you don’t have boxes and/or COAs they will sell slower and likely for less.
Whichever ones you paid the most for, try to see what they or similar models sold for or are currently listed for on AZCK, Bladebinge, Ebay, knifeswap, etc if they aren’t commonly listed on dealers or unavailable now.
meatman7569
That is a nice collection. Not a fan of lanyards, but you do you. Cheers.
5 Comments
$50. Maybe $55 if you find the right buyer.
How do you expect folks to value the collection without being able to inspect the condition of each one? Aerial photographs don’t cut it.
If you want an accurate estimate, get the collection professionally appraised.
Typically, if it’s in very good condition and not a super special collector’s piece or custom, 80%-85% of what the knives would cost new is a safe bet.
Obviously, the exact model and maker can change that number, and I’m not about to go through every one pictured here to discover the name and then research the normal retail value.
Use, condition, age, and even exact configuration also matters.
All this to say I have no clue.
It’s tough like others say. I’m seeing Spydercos and Cold Steel which are kinda cheaper knives. Generally you should just look what current prices are on each knife new and start putting them in a spreadsheet like Excel or even a word document table if you are looking to sell them. I think getting 80% back or so back if they are in good condition is reasonable. If you don’t have boxes and/or COAs they will sell slower and likely for less.
Whichever ones you paid the most for, try to see what they or similar models sold for or are currently listed for on AZCK, Bladebinge, Ebay, knifeswap, etc if they aren’t commonly listed on dealers or unavailable now.
That is a nice collection. Not a fan of lanyards, but you do you. Cheers.
I mean at least a dollar probably