On the left – 1600 lumen Braun led flood light
On the right – Wurkkos ts26
I was recommended to get the wurkkos as i record inside abandoned buildings and the Braun light was flickering on camera really bad. I was told to get the ts26s or ts28 but if I needed a wide light output then the ts26s. Needless to say im super disappointed, even on turbo mode which last two minutes its still not as bright as thr Braun on night (not even its boost mode)
Am I doing something wrong? Theres no adjustment to change its beam width.
by turbo_sc300
8 Comments
This is what you need.
https://www.zebralight.com/SC700Fd-21700-XHP703-Floody-Neutral-White-High-CRI-Flashlight_p_240.html
Is the TS26S charged?
I have a hard time believing that a fully functioning TS26S could not get as bright as that tiny little braun thing.
That’s definitely something wrong. Is it fully charged?
Are you sure it’s on turbo?
your photo seems to be very close to the wall.. not a good representation of the beam of the TS26 at a longer distance… close wall beam comparisons can be misleading
> Theres no adjustment to change its beam width.
true..
the beam spreads out automatically, when you move farther away from the wall
here is a video showing the beam:
[https://youtu.be/naV8ajCC07M](https://youtu.be/naV8ajCC07M)
and a beam photo from the video, on High (dont use Turbo, it wont last as long.. even better if you just use Medium for longer runtime):
https://preview.redd.it/472arfnh31bg1.png?width=1374&format=png&auto=webp&s=e0e593980eb0364d9c19112deff5659d0024c7cb
suggest you try the light in an actual use scenario… not so close to a wall…
> the flood light/beam coverage i want without a concentrated part in the center like the wurkkos
It is true that the TS26 beam has a concentrated center, which may not be suitable for indoor recording…
one thing you might try, is bouncing the beam off the ceiling..
the ceiling bounced light will illuminate the inside of the building with a more evenly diffused intensity, that might work better for your indoor recording.
or it might just be the wrong tool for your job.. a concentrated hotspot is difficult to use for recording, it tends to blind the camera.. You might be able to add a diffuser to eliminate the concentrated center..
the simplest diffuser you might try is scotch magic tape. beyond that is a product called DCFix, which is an adhesive plastic film with bumps on it, used to make glass doors on showers less transparent..
If you want a floody beam just add dc -fix or another diffusion material to the lens . You can turn any light into a much smoother floody beam in seconds .
You need a mule…
[Fireflylite NOV MU V2S with 97CRI Nichia E21A 4500K emitters and battery](https://www.firefly-outdoor.com/products/nov-mu?variant=46325650030806).
https://preview.redd.it/9abewzqw61bg1.jpeg?width=783&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=60be4cb2c1dfee7c9370b0e32d3109b97e57cb0c
The TS26S is brighter than that Braun when both are on their 100%/Turbo outputs. In no world is that Braun out-producing more lumens than the Wurkkos. But if you’re needing a wider area, more homogeneous coverage for videography, you need a mule, a light without any collimating optics on top of the bare LED.
The NOV MU can hold just over 2,000 lumens stable for your shot for almost 10 minutes straight. If you need stills, it’ll give you nearly 6,000 lumens of 97CRI light for 45 seconds to get the shot. I use mine for photography fill lighting, and it works amazing as a macro fill light.
My only worry is that you’ll love the CRI and 4500K output so much that you may want to hold the light’s output on higher modes and it can’t sustain 4,000-6,000 lumens…
Sorry you’re having a bad experience with your first light you got recommended on here. I checked your other post and apparently it was worded such that it wasn’t obvious you want a total flood light without a hotspot in the center.
Now, with a hotspot you can actually point it down a corridor and get some decent exposure at the far end and also some light in the front. But I can totally see why this is generally not suitable for photography (hence video lights exist, which are practically all flood lights without any hotspot whatsoever).
Now if what you’re after is a super wide, even flood without any additional reach in the center, what you want is what we call a mule (practically bare LEDs without any optics). Or you could straight up look into battery powered videography lights. But of course pure flood means the light falls off very quickly if it’s pointed into the distance.
Maybe you can send the Wurkkos back or sell it here in the BST if you don’t want to keep it as just a generally good flashlight.
A light with higher candela is always going to seem brighter than a floodier light .
The zoomie zoomed in tightly will appear brighter even if it has less lumens. I would simply assume you don’t have the battery on the Wurrkos fully charged cell. At least on start up it should be brighter . Lights just aren’t made to be run wide open any more than your car isn’t built to be running at 10,000 rpm for any length of time .
The Wurrkos is a much better light for multiple reasons . Switch , ano , user interface , color , temp,tint , cri , pwm , low voltage protection etc etc etc.
Do you know what the voltage on the batteries are ? Do you own a bolt meter ?
If you want more flood , private message me and I’ll send you some diffusion film .