I'm looking to purchase a flashlight and I have pretty specific criteria that I need in order to be happy with the purchase. I also have severe decision paralysis. I keep debating with myself over a couple different contenders and just can't decide what is best for me. I don't want to tell you what I was considering as I'd like to get honest and unbiased opinions. I would love to hear the input of people who know what they are talking about and I appreciate anyone who takes the time to read this and make a suggestion. Please tell me what you think best suits these parameters:
đź”´Small to medium sized handheld flashlight
đź”´Budget is about $115
đź”´Would prefer to have removable rechargeable batteries (so I can buy extras and rotate them out)
đź”´The batteries preferably would be rechargeable in the light itself (USB-C or similar onboard charging)
🔴Not looking for a lot of flood — I want more throw and a focused/zoomable beam
đź”´I prefer a neutral or warmer tint (I have a hard time adjusting my eyes to the bright white and it reflects too much)
🔴Strong battery life on HIGH output — I want it to actually last a reasonable amount of time and not die in 30 minutes
đź”´A bonus would be if it has capability to also output red light but this isn't a priority
đź”´I have zero need for the tactical strobe mode but understand it is included on several different options and hard to avoid.
Just as a note, I want this for night time exploring in the woods. I go out and feed wildlife and like to be able to point the light directly at the intended target briefly for identification and do not want a lot of spillage. I currently am using some cheap flashlights that I got off of Amazon. They get the job done but they have definitely helped me determine what I DON'T want in my first expensive and serious flashlight purchase. Just to tell you more of where I'm coming from, the best of the cheap flashlights I use right now is one called Sofirn SK1 and tbh it's actually not terrible for what I use it for. The problem is that it will randomly turn off when it is nowhere near dead yet, the battery life is abysmal at best, and in the first few months of having it the power button basically just stopped working as intended for no reason (meaning I have to confess all of my sins, buy it a drink, throw salt over my shoulder, and hire an exorcist just to get it to turn on sometimes). I am including a picture of the cheap flashlight from Amazon for context. And it was much cheaper than $43 when I bought it.
Apologies if my terminology isn't accurate or up to date. Please feel free to ask any clarifying questions.
Thanks,
Amanda
by uh_man_duh24
4 Comments
convoy m21h with xhp70.3 hi r70, 4000k, molicel p45b (or p50b, anyway, get a couple if you want spare batteries). and get youself all the available tir lenses to experiment with balance of flood/throw. ticks all your checkboxes (except red light)
Quite honestly, I think you’ve had bad luck with the SK1 – I would have said it’s pretty much what you’re looking for.
The Wurkkos TS11 has a similar sort of beam. It has a larger head so is not so pocketable and you would need to order the 18650 tube with it for more battery life. (The Sofirn IF22A is similar and has a bigger 21700 battery but the driver is inefficient.)Â
If you are not demanding on your lights (haven’t mistreated it), then you should contact Sofirn customer services about the SK1.Â
If you are rough with your lights, then maybe you should invest in a Fenix.Â
Based on what you’re wanting to use the light for, my suggestion is to go with the [Fireflylite E04 Surge, using the high CRI FFL505A 3500K-4000K CRI95 emitters and add the battery](https://www.firefly-outdoor.com/products/e04-surge-quad-5050?variant=46324236550358).
It has a few features that I think will make your job much easier based on your needs:
* 95+ CRI light… Since you’re dealing with identification, and I’m assuming not too long range where you’re still eyeballing these animals, an extreme CRI quality beam of light is better.
* 3500-4000K range… Warmer light, but not so warm that it loses too much intensity or will cause too much heat related issues.
* 3200 lumens max output, but sustains roughly 800-900 lumens stable, flat laminar output for about 2 hours, as the light is based off of a highly efficient buck+FET driver that allows you to have fully regulated output at middle and high sustained modes, and maximum output for 30-45 seconds on Turbo for when you need it.
* USB-C magnetic port… One of, if not the best implemented recharging ports on any light I’ve seen. Fully submersible port, as the flap is only conveniently there to keep it flat and covered.
* Floody-thrower beam profile… You won’t lose peripheral vision, as there is some soft spill cast wide, nearly down to your feet when you point the light forward. You can use this light to walk and keep your footing on trails and pathways. But most of the lumens output goes into the large hotspot that reaches out to about 250 meters with good clarity and brightness at that endbeam distance.
* IPX8… If you’re outside in pouring rain, or if you drop it into a puddle or stream, it won’t care.
If you think 480 meters ANSI rated throw, about 250 meters effective throw, is still to short of a distance, or you still want a more narrow beam, you can check out the [Fireflylite E90 Blaze TIR, using the FFL707RD 4200K CRI95](https://www.firefly-outdoor.com/collections/ffl-flashlights/products/e90-blaze?variant=47077387403478) emitter option (with added battery). It should throw to 900 meters rated, or effective out to about 450 meters.
Just some quick info that might help, maybe you already know all these, but if you don’t it might help you not fall for marketing.
Pretty much all flashlights drop from turbo to the stable output in just a few minutes (because they generate a lot of heat), for example Nitecore MH12 Pro (3300 lumens) and Fenix PD36R Pro (2800 lumens) both drop to around 800 lumens.
If you see two flashlights, both using 5000mAh 21700 cells, that have the same ammount of max lumens but different duration, the difference is less likely because of efficiency, it’s the stable output most probably, one might be 500lumens and one 1000 so the duration is more or less half for the second.
You can’t really have compact, high stable lumens and duration all at the same time, there is no miracle efficient LED or miracle cell or miracle body materials to dissipate heat.
Also important: do you need IP68?
EDIT: I suggest you narrow your search to 21700 (not 18650) and buy at least one spare cell.